Deep Dive Podcast - Jason Fullilove
In the ever-shifting landscape of gastronomy, where trends flicker and fade with the seasons, certain culinary voices possess an enduring resonance. We have come to discover one such voice, Executive Chef Jason Fullilove. With a career etched across continents and woven together through a rich tapestry of experiences, life, and upbringing, Fullilove has not only navigated the evolution of dining but has actively contributed to its vibrant narrative. As someone who has long observed the intricacies between tradition and innovation myself, having a foodie background and familiarity with Michelin rated kitchens, I find Fullilove’s journey a fascinating discovery in the culinary arts, rooted in a sense of place and a fearless embrace of global flavors combined with soul.
Fullilove’s story begins in Cleveland Heights, OH, a place Fullilove consistently refers to as “home”. It was here, amidst family gatherings orchestrated by his grandmother’s hand in the kitchen, that his foundational understanding of soul food took root. But for Fullilove, soul food transcends a mere list of dishes; it embodies the very essence of “home and community”. This early imprint, however, was only the first layer of a multifaceted culinary journey. His childhood spent in Africa at an international school and immersion into African cultures exposed him to a kaleidoscope of global palates, planting seeds of curiosity that would later bloom into his signature fusion of global influences, deeply informed by the traditions of the African diaspora.
This foundation propelled him onto a professional path that wound through the rigorous kitchens of New York City’s corporate dining, where he gained invaluable insight into an exciting, but also, unforgiving industry. A subsequent sojourn to the Ritz Carlton in the Virgin Islands further broadened his culinary perspective before he ultimately set his sights on California in 2009. Why California, we ask? For Fullilove, “it was the hallowed ground where many of my idols had found their success.”
“food that I’m eating and loving and consider like, you know, African, but essentially comfort food and try to do that with a fine dining approach.”
Indeed, the spirit of California’s pioneering chefs permeates Fullilove’s culinary ethos. He speaks with deep respect for figures like Mark Peel and Joël Robuchon, and his years with the Joachim Splichal Group provided a masterclass in fine dining. His embrace of the farm-to-table ethos – a place which we are all too familiar with – championed by Californian culinary legends, remains a cornerstone of his approach, emphasizing seasonal ingredients and the inherent quality of well-sourced produce and provisions. His time as executive chef at Malibu Pier Restaurant & Bar marked a pivotal moment, allowing him to truly articulate his burgeoning culinary voice, celebrating the bounty of the Pacific and the vibrant local markets.
But the spirit of innovation called, leading to the creation of Barbara Jean (named after his mother), a restaurant concept that daringly reimagined soul food through a fine-dining lens. This wasn’t about simply plating collard greens with tweezers; it was about honoring traditions while pushing boundaries, using refined techniques to elevate familiar foods of comfort that we all know and have come to love. As Fullilove explains, he wanted to take “food that I’m eating and loving and consider like, you know, African, but essentially comfort food and try to do that with a fine dining approach”. This bold vision, nurtured through pop-ups and residencies, eventually led to licensing deals, demonstrating his entrepreneurial spirit and deep connection to his culinary roots.
Fullilove found further expression in Tumie Coco, an all-natural hot sauce and apparel company. What sparked this venture? As Fullilove recounts, “being the only chef among peers at the LA FC stadium without a product to sell” ignited a desire to diversify his creative and business endeavors. More than just a condiment, Fullilove envisioned Tumie Coco as a “tool to use in the kitchen to make your food better”. The brand now boasts a vibrant array of Tumie Coco Hot Sauces, the Tumie Coco Cultural Guide Cookbook brimming with 25 recipes showcasing the versatility of his sauces, and cool merchandise like hoodies and hats. This multifaceted approach underscores his understanding of modern culinary branding and his commitment to sharing his flavorful vision with a wider audience.
“That’s the kind of immersive experience I strive to create, where even the placement of a purse hook at the bar speaks to a thoughtful consideration of the guest’s needs.”
At the heart of Fullilove’s culinary philosophy lies a profound understanding of fusion. This isn’t a chaotic jumble of disparate and unintentionally paired ingredients but, rather a thoughtful and respectful blending of global flavors. For him, food serves as a universal language, a powerful tool for connection. As he eloquently states, “If I can bring cultures together on a plate and make it not seem or taste weird, I think that does a lot for society in some weird way… showing people that, hey, we’re all the same. We all eat the same stuff. We all like the same stuff. If it tastes good, if it’s cooked right, we can all sit together and break bread together”. This philosophy manifests in unexpected yet harmonious pairings, such as the possibility of using “a spice from Japan to toss on the chicken when it comes out of the fryer or incorporating “aji amarillo, which is Peruvian chili” into a sauce. Consider the evocative beef duo he presented at BOA Steak, featuring Australian Wagyu with braised oxtail alongside coconut rice arancini and an apricot muhammara sauce – a testament to his cross-cultural culinary dialogue.
Beyond the artistry on the plate, Fullilove is deeply engaged with the broader currents of the food industry. He emphasizes the vital importance of better food education, advocating for a deeper understanding of “what real food is, how to get real food, how to prepare real food and just eat cleaner”. He also stresses the need to cultivate fundamental cooking skills in aspiring chefs, lamenting a trend towards fleeting fame without a solid foundation in technique. In a technologically driven world we asked him about the use of current tech in his kitchen and business enterprises, Fullilove mentions he embraces tools like AI, viewing them pragmatically as valuable for “proofreading, understanding legal documents, you know, things like that. Like clerical things” rather than a replacement for human creativity. “People who are creative aren’t afraid of AI.”
When asked about crafting the perfect dining experience, Fullilove’s vision extends far beyond the menu itself. He underscores the critical roles of service and restaurant design, believing that a well-conceived space is akin to “a piece of living art,” creating an inviting and comfortable ambiance with meticulous attention to detail. Have you ever walked into a restaurant and instantly felt a sense of belonging we ask? “That’s the kind of immersive experience I strive to create, where even the placement of a purse hook at the bar speaks to a thoughtful consideration of the guest’s needs.”
His journey doesn’t stop there, Chef Jason Fullilove’s experience on the Food Network occurred while he was the executive chef at Malibu Pier Restaurant & Bar garnering him even more visibility. “When I was there, I got to meet people like Bobby Flay.” The opportunity to appear on the Food Network likely contributed to him making a name for himself in California as a chef and gaining press for the restaurant.
Looking to the horizon, Fullilove remains ever restless, “I think that I’m definitely a person who’s never gonna feel like I made it. I’m always going to feel like I have so much more to do and I have so many ideas I’d like to bring to life.” He also has an event company, Jason George Events, which orchestrates a diverse range of special occasions with his signature blend of precision and gourmet expertise. He also envisions a potential Tumi Coco cafe, a space where his products and culinary vision can come together under one brand. Furthermore, his commitment to exploring deeper narratives within the food system is evident in his ambition to produce a documentary about Black farmers. And while he values mentorship, his approach is rooted in direct, hands-on experience, nurturing talent through long-term collaboration rather than fleeting advice.
Reflecting on Fullilove’s journey, one wonders, was there a singular moment when he truly felt he had found his culinary voice? While he admits he’s “never gonna feel like I made it”, he points to his time as chef at Malibu Pier Restaurant & Bar as a period where he truly got to bring his style to life. However, it was the evolution into Barbecue that allowed him to fully explore his personal culinary voice. Consider his smoked pork agnolotti with charred corn puree and popcorn shoots – a dish that seamlessly marries Italian pasta-making with the smoky embrace of barbecue, a testament to his ability to weave traditions into a harmonious and unforgettable culinary story. Doesn’t a dish like that make your mouth water? It does for this foodie.
Jason Fullilove’s journey is more than just a collection of recipes and restaurant accolades; it’s a testament to the power of tradition and preserving cultural heritage, the thrill of innovation, and the profound ability of food to connect us all. From his formative years in Cleveland to his influential presence in the Los Angeles food scene, Fullilove continues to craft not just exquisite meals plated beautifully, but a legacy built on the enduring principles of taste, tradition, and a deep-seated belief in the unifying language of food. His is a story that resonates with both the seasoned gourmand and the everyday food enthusiast, reminding us that the most compelling culinary narratives are often those that are deeply rooted in home, yet fearlessly explore the boundless flavors of the world while also bucking the status quo.